Το Μπέργκαμο, δεν είναι ανάμεσα στους πρωταγωνιστικούς ευρωπαϊκούς προορισμούς, αλλά θα μπορούσε να διεκδικήσει μια θέση…. Να βγει από τη σκιά του Μιλάνου και να αποκαλύψει την ακαταμάχητη γοητεία του. Και όχι απαραίτητα γιατί είναι ομορφότερο ή έχει να επιδείξει περισσότερα αλλά γιατί είναι διαφορετικό και μοναδικό!
Το Μπέργκαμο είναι μια αυθεντική, παραδοσιακή, ήσυχη πόλη του ιταλικού βορρά, ένα μαγευτικό μέρος με ιστορικό χαρακτήρα και 2 πρόσωπα που μπορεί να εντυπωσιάσει κάθε επισκέπτη. Απλώνεται της Pianura Padana της πεδιάδας που διασχίζει ο ποταμός Πάδος ενώ βόρεια το »σκεπάζουν» οι χιονισμένες Άλπεις!
Το κέντρο του Μπέργκαμο
Η πόλη “χωρίζεται” στα δύο. Η Citta Bassa (Κάτω πόλη) είναι επίπεδη και σύγχρονη με όλα όσα περιμένεις να δεις σε μια πόλη. Εντυπωσιακά ιστορικά κτήρια, πλατείες, πεζόδρομοι, μεγάλοι κεντρικοί δρόμοι, ενδιαφέρουσα αγορά και πολλά ποδήλατα! Η άλλη, η δεύτερη είναι και η πιο ενδιαφέρουσα… Πρόκειται για την μεσαιωνική Άνω πόλη την Citta Alta, πάνω στον λόφο που την »οχυρώνουν» τα ενετικά τείχη και έχει τα πιο σημαντικά αξιοθέατα.
Η δική μου επιλογή για το Μπέργκαμο αν και έγινε κάπως τυχαία, καθώς άλλος ήταν ο αρχικός προορισμός (ειρήσθω εν παρόδω ήταν το Πρίμολο ένα μικρό χωριό κάτω από τις Άλπεις…) τελικά με δικαίωσε. Όχι μόνο γιατί είναι μια πανέμορφη πόλη αλλά γιατί είναι εξαιρετική επιλογή αν θέλετε να μείνετε κάπου πιο οικονομικά, παραδοσιακά και ήσυχα σε σχέση με δημοφιλέστερους προορισμούς της Βόρειας Ιταλίας αλλά και ταυτόχρονα πολύ κοντά σε κάποιους από αυτούς όπως το Μιλάνο και η λίμνη Κόμο.
Τριγυρίζοντας στα στενά της Citta Alta…
Ακριβώς λοιπόν επειδή δεν ήταν η αρχική επιλογή, προσγειωθήκαμε στη Μαλπένσα, το αεροδρόμιο του Μιλάνου και όχι στο Μπέργκαμο αν και έχει αεροδρόμιο και μάλιστα με απευθείας πτήση από Αθήνα.
Τελικά όμως αυτό βγήκε σε καλό καθώς είχαμε νοικιάσει αυτοκίνητο ώστε να μπορούμε να κινηθούμε εύκολα απο τη Μαλπένσα τόσο για Μπέργκαμο όσο και στους άλλους προορισμούς που είχαμε σκοπό να επισκεφτούμε πράγμα που έγινε ακόμα ευκολότερο καθώς το οδικό δίκτυο είναι εξαιρετικό (προσοχή μόνο στους πολλούς κόμβους γιατί μπερδεύουν) και το αυτοκίνητο ήταν οικονομικό.
Φτάνοντας λοιπόν στην Μαλπένσα, με πρώτη στάση την εταιρεία ενοικίασης αυτοκινήτων (μέσα στο αεροδρόμιο), ξεκινήσαμε οδικώς για Μπέργκαμο.
Η διαδρομή είναι 91 χλμ., στην autostrada περίπου 1 ώρα με 2 διόδια. Το ξενοδοχείο, το B&B Hotel Bergamo είναι περίπου 1χλμ. από το κέντρο γεγονός πολύ ευχάριστο καθώς το παρκάρισμα στο κέντρο είναι -σχεδόν- παντού επί πληρωμή. Το ξενοδοχείο ήταν ανέλπιστα καλό, σύγχρονο με άνετο δωμάτιο, καθαρό με πολύ εξυπηρετικό προσωπικό ενώ και η τιμή του ήταν προσιτή (70€ δίκλινο). Plus διέθετε δωρεάν ιδιωτικό πάρκινγκ λίγα μέτρα μακριά από το ξενοδοχείο.
Η πόλη στην πρώτη επαφή είχε μια περίεργη ησυχία και παράλληλα ήταν εξαιρετικά ατμοσφαιρική και σκοτεινή αν και τα λαμπάκια (ήταν η εβδομάδα ανάμεσα στα Χριστούγεννα και την Πρωτοχρονιά) που στόλιζαν σχεδόν κάθε δρόμο της, »πάλευαν» για το αντίθετο.
Σκέφτηκα ότι είναι τόσο ατμοσφαιρική, γεμάτη επιβλητικά παλιά αλλά καλοδιατηρημένα κτήρια που θα μπορούσε να είναι κεντρικό σκηνικό σε χολιγουντιανή ταινία. Η βόλτα στην πόλη οφείλω να παραδεχτώ ότι με εντυπωσίασε. Το μεγαλύτερο μέρος του κέντρου είναι πεζοδρομημένο αν και περνούν αυτοκίνητα αλλά η οδηγική συμπεριφορά γενικά είναι αξιοθαύμαστη! Όχι μόνο τηρούνται ευλαβικά οι κανόνες αλλά η ευγένεια των οδηγών εντυπωσιάζει! Έχει αρκετά μαγαζιά για καφέ, για μπύρα και φαγητό όπως και αρκετά ενημερωμένη αγορά, αν και τα ωράρια είναι κάπως περίπλοκα. Το μεσημέρι τα περισσότερα είναι κλειστά (συμπεριλαμβανομένων cafe και εστιατορίων), όπως κλειστά πχ τα βρήκαμε και Δευτέρα.
Και μπορεί η πόλη να είναι όμορφη με πολλές επιλογές αλλά αν για κάποιο λόγο στο Μπέργκαμο μπορείτε να κάνετε μόνο ένα πράγμα αυτό πρέπει να είναι, η επίσκεψη στην παλιά πόλη, τη Citta Alta.
Αν και μπορείτε να φτάσετε και με το αυτοκίνητο και με το λεωφορείο επιλέξτε να ανεβείτε με το τελεφερίκ (Funicolare) Κοστίζει μόλις 2,5€ aller retour, είναι σύντομη διαδρομή και μοναδική εμπειρία!
Ανεβαίνοντας από την άλλη με το αυτοκίνητο, θα διασχίσετε την Viale delle Mura, τον δρόμο κατά μήκος των τειχών από τον οποίο »αποκαλύπτεται» πανοραμικά όλη η κάτω πόλη όπως και η πανέμορφη και καταπράσινη ύπαιθρος της Λομβαρδίας.
Μόλις έφτασα εντυπωσιάστηκα! Ο κόσμος εντός των τειχών είναι σαν ένας μικρόκοσμος με δική του καθημερινότητα και κανόνες.
Στην ατμοσφαιρική με τη μεσαιωνική αύρα, Πάνω πόλη νιώθεις σαν να έχεις χαθείς το χωροχρόνο. Άριστο σκηνικό για χολιγουντιανές παραγωγές!
Στην πλατεία της ,την εντυπωσιακή Piazza Vecchia, την πιο όμορφη πλατεία σε ολόκληρη την Ευρώπη όπως έχει πει ο πρωτοπόρος Ελβετός αρχιτέκτονας Λε Κορμπυζιέ, αν μπορέσεις να απομονώσεις τις αισθήσεις σου από τον πολύ κόσμο τριγύρω και τα »σημάδια» σύγχρονου πολιτισμού νομίζεις ότι θα εμφανιστούν μονομάχοι ρωμαϊκών χρόνων.
Καλοδιατηρημένα κτήρια που μαρτυρούν περήφανα την ιστορία τους, φιλόξενοι και ευγενικοί Ιταλοί, πλήθος επισκεπτών χαρακτηριστικά μαγαζιά για φαγητό, καφέ ή γλυκό αλλά και τοπικά προϊόντα όπως και shopping (πιο τουριστικής λογικής) που συγκεντρώνονται κυρίως στην κεντρική Via bartolomeo Colleoni που συνεχίζει ως Via Gombito και καταλήγει Via Porta Dipinta και πολλά, πολλά ακόμα μικρά σοκάκια λιθόστρωτα, με επιβλητικά κτήρια δεξιά και αριστερά σαν άλλος λαβύρινθος…Φτάνοντας στην άκρη της, κάτω από τα τείχη η απέραντη πανοραμική θέα κόβει την ανάσα!
To Know. Οι κοντινές αποστάσεις από άκρως ενδιαφέροντες προορισμούς (Μιλάνο, Λίμνη Κόμο κ.α) και το εξαιρετικό οδικό δίκτυο «συνωμοτούν» για καθημερινές αποδράσεις!
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